When Paul Drew flirted the idea of a central Wales climbing weekender, there was enough interest to justify a bank holiday trip to the Cardigan coastline and the prominent sandstone headland of Ynys Lochtyn. The tidal island of Ynys Lochtyn is located off the main coastal path which traverses the entire bay, extending from the quaint-if-not-popular village of Llangrannog, north eastwards to New Quay.

Weather looked mixed for the extended weekend with the threat of a true break following the month long spell of fine conditions – perfect timing for camping and climbing. A few of the group headed down early on Friday morning to make the most of what was on offer and sneak a few routes in before the main gang arrived in the evening.

The approach to the climbing undulated high above hidden sea-sculpted beaches and coves, with uninterrupted views across the vast bay toward Aberystwyth and the distant Llyn Peninsula. Visibility was crystal clear with flat calm water below and like many sections of the Welsh coastal path, gorse bushes scratched at clothing, ropes and climbing sacks as the island came into view – weather was looking up and climbing was on.

Harry, Paul, Kyle, Stew and Martin enjoyed a few routes that afternoon working through the classics of the crag. It quickly became apparent that the climbing was steady for the grade and a mass CMC downgrade was on the cards. HVS 5a quickly became VS 4b… E1 5b quickly became VS 4c… E2 5c quickly became VS 5a… (a real feel good crag).

Following the first days climbing, the main group trickled into the picturesque campsite pair by pair, which was located a short drive from Llangrannog. Long gone are the days of group turn up, pitch up and pay up camping and there was some speculation from the owners about the large group of smelly climbers that now adorned their eco-site. Fortunately, they could see the wood for the trees and they realised that the only anti-social behaviour taking place would be Paul, logging routes on his phone (sorry, Paul).

The following few days provided plenty of climbing on the island for all members, with many routes ticked in-between gusts of wind and sea spray. Kev and Phil threatened to get washed into the sea at one point as they traversed a ledge, but fortunately only managed a mild soaking. The area is clearly a haven for wildlife with climbing taking place under the watchful eye of dolphins, seals, red kites, wild horses and Lexie dog.

A few defining or noteworthy moments from the trip:

• Martin is a huge Kylie Minogue fan, more so than climbing.
• Kyle and Harry have far too much matching gear for it to be ‘coincidence’.
• Stew is still ‘touch and go’ when it comes to actually booking reservations.
• Paul enjoyed beer and chips… three nights on the bounce.
• Barbara might end up with a drink when Paul goes to the bar.
• Lexie really enjoyed sneaking a quick lick of the inside of many unsuspecting victims ears.
• Neil is still as sharp as ever, and brings his own personal carers on CMC trips (his mum and dad).
• Sandra still decides when Neil gets to eat his own birthday cake.
• Phil did his best to rearrange the wild flower meadows surrounding each camping pitch by driving his car straight across.
• Anyone who knows of Kev’s famous muesli tin, might be shocked to read that on closer archaeological inspection, it isn’t quite as old as he’d previously remembered.

In review, Ynys Lochtyn provided an enjoyable weekends climbing in a spectacular setting, but it is fair to say that the routes are short, the grades are soft and there’s just about enough climbing for a couple of days away – without doubt, this trip considerably increased the overall number of ascents across all of the routes in the past ~10 years.

Disappointingly though and despite best efforts, nobody was trapped on the island by the rising tide, although there were some great dashes for safety from those who stayed on ‘for one last route’. These were made even more entertaining for the onlookers perched on the mainland proper. Kev’s climbing shoes however, did spend the night on Ynys Lochtyn, which following, received the area of special scientific interest status…